Machakos County, with its captivating mix of natural wonders and historical landmarks, offers a journey into Kenya’s cultural and colonial past. My recent motorcycle adventure on my trusty Kawasaki KLR 650 took me to this region, where every mile was filled with discovery and stories waiting to be told.
Kya Mwilu: The Enigmatic Anti-Gravity Hill
The adventure began at Kya Mwilu, a site famous for its mysterious anti-gravity phenomenon. Here, vehicles appear to roll uphill on what seems like a downward slope. Intrigued, I tested it myself, letting my motorcycle idle. To my amazement, it began rolling backward—uphill. This optical illusion, created by the unique lay of the land, left me in awe and eager for the adventures ahead.
Through Tala and Kisyukioni
From Kya Mwilu, I rode through Tala and Kisyukioni, enjoying the smooth roads and scenic landscapes dotted with acacia trees. Life in these small towns buzzed with warmth, as locals waved and called out in greetings. The vibrant culture and serenity of these stops were the calm before the thrill of an off-road ride to a historic landmark: the Macmillan Castle.
Macmillan Castle: A Portal to Kenya’s Colonial Past
My next destination was the Macmillan Castle, nestled in a place called Muka Mukuu. The name, which translates to “first wife” in Kikamba, evokes a sense of tradition and significance. This imposing structure was built in the early 1900s by Sir William Northrup McMillan, an adventurer and colonial settler of American descent.
Standing at the castle’s entrance, I was struck by its grandeur and sense of foreboding. Built with thick stone walls, the castle once served multiple roles: a hunting lodge, a social hub for McMillan’s extravagant parties, and later, during World Wars I and II, a military hospital and a prison.
Exploring the castle, I descended into the underground chambers, where the notorious prisoners’ bunkers lay. The air was cool and damp, and the narrow passages evoked an eerie sense of the suffering endured by those held there. Walking through these spaces, I could almost hear the whispers of history.
The castle is surrounded by vast land that was once home to sisal farms, worked by laborers, including Tom Mboya’s parents, Leonardus Ndiege and Marcella Onyango. These farms were part of McMillan’s expansive 19,000-acre Juja estate. Tom Mboya, a towering figure in Kenya’s fight for independence, was born on this land—a connection that ties Kenya’s colonial history to its fight for freedom.
The Journey to the Waterway
After immersing myself in the castle’s history, I embarked on an off-road route toward a waterway crossing that would lead me to Thika. Upon arrival, I was greeted by makeshift rafts that seemed like they could sink at any moment. Yet, they were the lifeline for ferrying people, livestock, and even motorcycles across the water.
The spectacle began as a team of more than ten men worked together to load my heavy Kawasaki KLR 650 onto one of the rafts. The raft wobbled under the weight, and I was asked to board the same vessel. Out of concern for overloading, I declined and opted for a separate raft, nervously watching as my bike floated across the water ahead of me.
Unloading the Beast
Reaching the other side was only half the battle. The process of unloading the bike was an uphill task—literally. The men coordinated with incredible strength and precision, lifting the KLR 650 off the raft and onto solid ground. Their teamwork and resilience were inspiring to watch, and I couldn’t help but marvel at their determination.
Reflections on the Ride
This journey through Machakos County was more than just a motorcycle adventure; it was a deep dive into Kenya’s history, culture, and the indomitable spirit of its people. From the mysterious Kya Mwilu to the storied walls of Macmillan Castle in Muka Mukuu, and the communal effort at the waterway crossing, every moment was filled with wonder and connection.
For motorcycle enthusiasts and adventurers looking to explore Kenya’s hidden gems, I offer guided tours to these extraordinary destinations. Together, we’ll uncover stories of resilience, history, and landscapes that leave a lasting impression.
Let’s make every ride an unforgettable story—where history meets adventure, and every destination has a tale to tell.
