Kagwiria Murungi in Turkana by Motorcycle

Through the Sands of Time: My 30-Day Motorcycle Journey Across Turkana

by with No Comment Adventures
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Kagwiria Murungi in Turkana by Motorcycle
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Kagwiria Murungi in Turkana by Motorcycle
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Turkana County is where the sun seems to meld with the horizon, painting the earth in shades of gold and ochre. This was not going to be no ordinary adventure. Over 30 days, I embarked on a ride through one of Kenya’s most remote yet culturally rich regions, weaving through its tough terrain, meeting extraordinary people, and uncovering stories as ancient as the land itself.

The journey began in Nairobi and took me through Kitale, West Pokot, Kainuk, Kalemworok, Kakong’, and Lokichar, before finally arriving in Lodwar, the gateway to Turkana. From there, every stop unraveled a new layer of Turkana’s vibrant culture and breathtaking landscapes.

Discovering Turkana’s Hidden Gems

Each day was a lesson in resilience and wonder. I spent nights in Lodwar and Kanamkemer, immersed in the local way of life. My travels took me to places that felt like stepping into history books:

  • Namortung’a: Ancient stone pillars shrouded in mystery, believed to serve as celestial markers for early civilizations.
  • Kalokol: A bustling fishing hub on the shores of Lake Turkana.
  • The Wadach Pyramids: Natural rock formations that inspire awe and curiosity.
  • Lobolo and Eliye Springs: Oasis-like retreats where palm trees sway against the desert’s stark backdrop.
  • Kang’atotha: A village that introduced me to Turkana’s intricate beadwork.
  • Central Island: An active volcanic island in Lake Turkana, home to three crater lakes, each teeming with unique ecosystems.
  • Lake Turkana Gulf: A shimmering expanse of water that sustains life and livelihoods.
  • Fishermen Villages: From Lotisan to Lochilet and Wadite to Lokwar-angipirie, each village revealed the daily struggles and triumphs of the fisherfolk who call Lake Turkana home.
  • ICT Hub at Loropio: A surprising beacon of technological innovation in this remote region.
  • Kataboi, Nariokotome, and Lowareng’ak: Villages that offered glimpses into Turkana’s communal resilience.
  • The Kenyan Canyon at Mlango: A dramatic natural formation that left me awestruck.
  • Lokitaung’ and Mlima Tatu: Landmarks that challenged my endurance and rewarded me with spectacular views.
  • The Gold Mines at Nadapal: Known locally as “Gold,” where miners dream of striking fortune.
  • Kakuma Refugee Camp: A testament to human resilience, where cultures from across Africa converge.

Cultural Immersion: Food, Jewelry, and Traditions

Turkana’s culture is a tapestry of traditions passed down through generations. I was fortunate to experience their unique way of life, starting with their cuisine.

Nang’aria, a porridge-like dish, was a staple on my journey. It is served in a traditional wooden dish called Atubua, adding a ceremonial touch to every meal. I also tried Epong’, donkey meat revered as medicinal, earning it the nickname Epong’ e Dawa (donkey meat is medicine). Another highlight was Topetokon, a type of meat prepared with an array of herbs that Turkana communities have relied on for generations. Their knowledge of local herbs is vast, with many used for food, medicine, and even rituals.

I wore Ngakoromwa, the intricate beadwork that Turkana women adorn. Each piece is more than just jewelry; it’s a story. The red beads symbolize bravery and strength, blue represents water, green stands for fertility, and yellow and white signify blessings and purity. Wearing their jewelry felt like carrying their history with me.

Overcoming the Terrain

The Turkana landscape is as unforgiving as it is mesmerizing. I battled endless stretches of open roads, scorching heat, and rugged paths that tested my limits. Yet, every challenge brought rewards: breathtaking sunsets over Lake Turkana, the thrill of navigating the Kenyan Canyon, and the serenity of Eliye Springs. Despite the lack of showers on some days and the overwhelming heat, the beauty and resilience of the land kept me going.

Empowering Turkana’s Communities

This journey wasn’t just about exploring; it was about connecting. Turkana’s micro-economies—fishing, beadwork, mining—are lifelines that deserve global attention. Through my motorcycle adventures, I’m committed to amplifying their voices and supporting sustainable initiatives. By sharing their stories, I hope to inspire solutions that uplift these communities and preserve their rich heritage.

Imagine if the world embraced the artistry of their beadwork, the ingenuity of their fishing techniques, or the potential of their gold mines. Together, we can ensure that Turkana’s story is celebrated globally.

Little-Known Facts About Turkana

  • Cradle of Mankind: Turkana is home to the Turkana Boy, a nearly complete Homo Erectus skeleton.
  • Lake Turkana: The world’s largest permanent desert lake, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Namortung’a: These ancient stone pillars are Turkana’s version of Stonehenge, their purpose still debated by historians.
  • Herbal Knowledge: The Turkana have an extensive understanding of local herbs, using them for food, medicine, and rituals.

Why I Ride

Every kilometre I cover is a step closer to uncovering and sharing stories that matter. Turkana left an indelible mark on my heart, and through my rides, I hope to leave a legacy of empowerment and connection. My motorcycle is more than just a means of travel; it’s a bridge between worlds, carrying stories of hope and resilience from the heart of Turkana to the rest of the world.

 

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Nairobi to Homa Bay: Six Days of Rugged Trails, Serene Shores, and Timeless Stories on Two Wheels

by with No Comment Adventures
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When I mounted my Kawasaki KLR 650 in Nairobi that morning, I was ready for an adventure—but the six days that followed exceeded all expectations. My destination was Homa Bay County, a region brimming with scenic landscapes, cultural richness, and off-road challenges. As a motorcycle enthusiast, this was the kind of journey I live for, and I’m thrilled to share my story with you.

From Nairobi to Mbita: The Start of a Journey

The ride from Nairobi to Mbita set the stage. Smooth tarmac gave way to dusty roads, and I was reminded of why I’m drawn to these expeditions. There’s something about the changing terrain that awakens the senses. As I approached Mbita, the view of Lake Victoria’s shimmering waters against the backdrop of distant islands filled me with anticipation.

The Water-bus to Mfangano Island

Mfangano Island was my first major stop, and getting there was an adventure in itself. At Mbita, I loaded my motorcycle onto the water-bus, a vessel that ferries locals and adventurers like me across Lake Victoria. Watching the waves lap against the sides of the boat, I felt a mix of exhilaration and trepidation—what awaited me on the other side? Mfangano Island is a gem of off-road terrain. Not a single inch of tarmac greeted my tires, just pure, rugged trails. My KLR 650 and I were in our element. Navigating these paths tested my skills and reminded me of the sheer joy of adventure riding.

Discovering Mfangano: Mawanga Stone Arts and Soklo

One of the highlights of Mfangano was visiting the Mawanga Stone Arts. This site features intricate carvings on ancient stones, believed to have been created by the Abasuba people. The carvings depict animals, humans, and celestial symbols, telling stories of a bygone era. Standing there, I felt connected to a history that spoke of creativity, spirituality, and resilience. From there, I ascended Soklo, the island’s highest point. The climb was challenging, but the panoramic views from the summit were worth every effort. Lake Victoria stretched out in every direction, dotted with fishing boats and distant islands. It was a reminder of how vast and beautiful this region is.

The Serenity of Takawiri Island

Reaching Takawiri Island required leaving my motorcycle behind on Mfangano. Accessible only by boat, Takawiri is a haven of tranquility. I explored the island on foot, marveling at its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. It felt like stepping into a postcard. Returning to Mfangano to retrieve my bike, I was struck by how seamlessly this journey blended moments of rugged adventure with serene reflection.

Paying Tribute at Rusinga Island

The next leg of my journey took me to Rusinga Island. One of the most poignant moments was visiting the Tom Mboya Mausoleum. Shaped like a bullet, the mausoleum is a tribute to one of Kenya’s greatest leaders, whose life was tragically cut short. Tom Mboya was a visionary, instrumental in shaping Kenya’s independence and education system. Meeting his brother at the mausoleum was an honor, and it deepened my appreciation for Mboya’s legacy.

Challenges Along the Way

Adventure riding is never without its hurdles. On Mfangano Island, my motorcycle’s battery gave out, and with no mechanic available, I had to rely on a jump start to keep going. It wasn’t until I reached Rusinga that I found a solution. Such challenges are part of the journey and make the successes even sweeter.

Community Connections

Beyond the sights and challenges, the people of Homa Bay County made this trip unforgettable. On Mfangano Island, I joined locals in fishing activities along the shores. Their warmth and openness turned strangers into friends and gave me a glimpse into their way of life.

An Invitation to Ride With Me

This six-day journey to Homa Bay County was more than just an adventure—it was a reminder of the beauty and resilience of Kenya. From the rugged trails of Mfangano to the serene beaches of Takawiri, every moment was an experience worth savoring. If my story inspires you, I invite you to join me on a guided tour. Let’s explore the hidden gems of Kenya together, one ride at a time. Whether you’re a seasoned rider, an adventure enthusiast, or someone simply looking for a unique travel experience, there’s a journey here for you. Let’s ride!  
Riding through Machakos

From Anti-Gravity Hills to Historic Castles: The Motorcycle Adventure to Machakos County

by with No Comment Adventures
Riding through Machakos
Riding through Machakos Kagwiria Murungi
Riding through Machakos Kagwiria Murungi
Machakos County, with its captivating mix of natural wonders and historical landmarks, offers a journey into Kenya’s cultural and colonial past. My recent motorcycle adventure on my trusty Kawasaki KLR 650 took me to this region, where every mile was filled with discovery and stories waiting to be told.

Kya Mwilu: The Enigmatic Anti-Gravity Hill

The adventure began at Kya Mwilu, a site famous for its mysterious anti-gravity phenomenon. Here, vehicles appear to roll uphill on what seems like a downward slope. Intrigued, I tested it myself, letting my motorcycle idle. To my amazement, it began rolling backward—uphill. This optical illusion, created by the unique lay of the land, left me in awe and eager for the adventures ahead.

Through Tala and Kisyukioni

From Kya Mwilu, I rode through Tala and Kisyukioni, enjoying the smooth roads and scenic landscapes dotted with acacia trees. Life in these small towns buzzed with warmth, as locals waved and called out in greetings. The vibrant culture and serenity of these stops were the calm before the thrill of an off-road ride to a historic landmark: the Macmillan Castle.

Macmillan Castle: A Portal to Kenya’s Colonial Past

My next destination was the Macmillan Castle, nestled in a place called Muka Mukuu. The name, which translates to “first wife” in Kikamba, evokes a sense of tradition and significance. This imposing structure was built in the early 1900s by Sir William Northrup McMillan, an adventurer and colonial settler of American descent. Standing at the castle’s entrance, I was struck by its grandeur and sense of foreboding. Built with thick stone walls, the castle once served multiple roles: a hunting lodge, a social hub for McMillan’s extravagant parties, and later, during World Wars I and II, a military hospital and a prison. Exploring the castle, I descended into the underground chambers, where the notorious prisoners’ bunkers lay. The air was cool and damp, and the narrow passages evoked an eerie sense of the suffering endured by those held there. Walking through these spaces, I could almost hear the whispers of history. The castle is surrounded by vast land that was once home to sisal farms, worked by laborers, including Tom Mboya’s parents, Leonardus Ndiege and Marcella Onyango. These farms were part of McMillan’s expansive 19,000-acre Juja estate. Tom Mboya, a towering figure in Kenya’s fight for independence, was born on this land—a connection that ties Kenya’s colonial history to its fight for freedom.

The Journey to the Waterway

After immersing myself in the castle’s history, I embarked on an off-road route toward a waterway crossing that would lead me to Thika. Upon arrival, I was greeted by makeshift rafts that seemed like they could sink at any moment. Yet, they were the lifeline for ferrying people, livestock, and even motorcycles across the water. The spectacle began as a team of more than ten men worked together to load my heavy Kawasaki KLR 650 onto one of the rafts. The raft wobbled under the weight, and I was asked to board the same vessel. Out of concern for overloading, I declined and opted for a separate raft, nervously watching as my bike floated across the water ahead of me.

Unloading the Beast

Reaching the other side was only half the battle. The process of unloading the bike was an uphill task—literally. The men coordinated with incredible strength and precision, lifting the KLR 650 off the raft and onto solid ground. Their teamwork and resilience were inspiring to watch, and I couldn’t help but marvel at their determination.

Reflections on the Ride

This journey through Machakos County was more than just a motorcycle adventure; it was a deep dive into Kenya’s history, culture, and the indomitable spirit of its people. From the mysterious Kya Mwilu to the storied walls of Macmillan Castle in Muka Mukuu, and the communal effort at the waterway crossing, every moment was filled with wonder and connection. For motorcycle enthusiasts and adventurers looking to explore Kenya’s hidden gems, I offer guided tours to these extraordinary destinations. Together, we’ll uncover stories of resilience, history, and landscapes that leave a lasting impression. Let’s make every ride an unforgettable story—where history meets adventure, and every destination has a tale to tell.