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Riding to the Equator: Celebrating Women Who Inspire : A Journey with Ms. Anne Keter

The deep rumble of my motorcycle echoed through the morning air as I rode toward Mogotio, a small town in Kenya where the Equator silently cuts across the land. But this ride wasn’t just about crossing a geographical milestone it was about meeting a woman who has turned knowledge into empowerment. Ms. Anne Keter, a geography expert, educator, and advocate for gender equality, has made it her life’s work to inspire and uplift her community. As International Women’s Day approaches, her story is a powerful reminder of the resilience and brilliance of women shaping our world. I first connected with Anne over the phone, instantly captivated by her passion for geography. She spoke with the confidence of someone who had spent years translating knowledge into real-world impact. Now, as I neared the Equator marker in Mogotio, I saw her standing with a warm, knowing smile ready to share wisdom not just about the Earth’s hemispheres, but about life itself.

A Lesson at the Center of the World

Anne’s curio shop, tucked just a few meters from the Equator, is more than a collection of artifacts it’s a hub of knowledge. “This is the center of the world,” she said, gesturing to the invisible yet powerful line that splits the planet. “Here, you stand in neither the northern nor the southern hemisphere. You are in perfect balance.” Then came one of the most fascinating demonstrations I’ve ever witnessed the Coriolis effect in action. With a simple basin of water, Anne illustrated how the Earth’s rotation influences the movement of winds and currents. Right on the Equator, water drained straight down. A few steps north, it swirled clockwise. South, it spiraled counterclockwise. Seeing this scientific wonder unfold before my eyes was mesmerizing, but Anne’s impact stretched far beyond geography.

Beyond Borders: Empowering Women and Communities

Anne is not just a teacher of science; she is a force for social change. A dedicated advocate against gender-based violence, she has spent years educating rural communities on the importance of safety, equality, and empowerment. “Understanding geography helps us navigate the world, but understanding people helps us change it,” she told me. Her work in training women and men alike to recognize and combat gender-based violence is a testament to her belief that education is the foundation of a just society.

Honoring Women Who Lead Change

As the sun painted the sky in shades of gold, I realized that this ride wasn’t just about reaching a destination it was about the people who make the journey meaningful. Ms. Anne Keter embodies the spirit of International Women’s Day: a woman who breaks barriers, educates, and uplifts others. This March 8th, let’s celebrate women like Anne – women who turn knowledge into empowerment and challenges into opportunities. Let’s amplify their voices, support their missions, and ride toward a world where every woman’s potential is recognized and honored.
Kagwiria Murungi in Turkana by Motorcycle

Through the Sands of Time: My 30-Day Motorcycle Journey Across Turkana

Turkana County is where the sun seems to meld with the horizon, painting the earth in shades of gold and ochre. This was not going to be no ordinary adventure. Over 30 days, I embarked on a ride through one of Kenya’s most remote yet culturally rich regions, weaving through its tough terrain, meeting extraordinary people, and uncovering stories as ancient as the land itself.

The journey began in Nairobi and took me through Kitale, West Pokot, Kainuk, Kalemworok, Kakong’, and Lokichar, before finally arriving in Lodwar, the gateway to Turkana. From there, every stop unraveled a new layer of Turkana’s vibrant culture and breathtaking landscapes.

Discovering Turkana’s Hidden Gems

Each day was a lesson in resilience and wonder. I spent nights in Lodwar and Kanamkemer, immersed in the local way of life. My travels took me to places that felt like stepping into history books:

  • Namortung’a: Ancient stone pillars shrouded in mystery, believed to serve as celestial markers for early civilizations.
  • Kalokol: A bustling fishing hub on the shores of Lake Turkana.
  • The Wadach Pyramids: Natural rock formations that inspire awe and curiosity.
  • Lobolo and Eliye Springs: Oasis-like retreats where palm trees sway against the desert’s stark backdrop.
  • Kang’atotha: A village that introduced me to Turkana’s intricate beadwork.
  • Central Island: An active volcanic island in Lake Turkana, home to three crater lakes, each teeming with unique ecosystems.
  • Lake Turkana Gulf: A shimmering expanse of water that sustains life and livelihoods.
  • Fishermen Villages: From Lotisan to Lochilet and Wadite to Lokwar-angipirie, each village revealed the daily struggles and triumphs of the fisherfolk who call Lake Turkana home.
  • ICT Hub at Loropio: A surprising beacon of technological innovation in this remote region.
  • Kataboi, Nariokotome, and Lowareng’ak: Villages that offered glimpses into Turkana’s communal resilience.
  • The Kenyan Canyon at Mlango: A dramatic natural formation that left me awestruck.
  • Lokitaung’ and Mlima Tatu: Landmarks that challenged my endurance and rewarded me with spectacular views.
  • The Gold Mines at Nadapal: Known locally as “Gold,” where miners dream of striking fortune.
  • Kakuma Refugee Camp: A testament to human resilience, where cultures from across Africa converge.

Cultural Immersion: Food, Jewelry, and Traditions

Turkana’s culture is a tapestry of traditions passed down through generations. I was fortunate to experience their unique way of life, starting with their cuisine.

Nang’aria, a porridge-like dish, was a staple on my journey. It is served in a traditional wooden dish called Atubua, adding a ceremonial touch to every meal. I also tried Epong’, donkey meat revered as medicinal, earning it the nickname Epong’ e Dawa (donkey meat is medicine). Another highlight was Topetokon, a type of meat prepared with an array of herbs that Turkana communities have relied on for generations. Their knowledge of local herbs is vast, with many used for food, medicine, and even rituals.

I wore Ngakoromwa, the intricate beadwork that Turkana women adorn. Each piece is more than just jewelry; it’s a story. The red beads symbolize bravery and strength, blue represents water, green stands for fertility, and yellow and white signify blessings and purity. Wearing their jewelry felt like carrying their history with me.

Overcoming the Terrain

The Turkana landscape is as unforgiving as it is mesmerizing. I battled endless stretches of open roads, scorching heat, and rugged paths that tested my limits. Yet, every challenge brought rewards: breathtaking sunsets over Lake Turkana, the thrill of navigating the Kenyan Canyon, and the serenity of Eliye Springs. Despite the lack of showers on some days and the overwhelming heat, the beauty and resilience of the land kept me going.

Empowering Turkana’s Communities

This journey wasn’t just about exploring; it was about connecting. Turkana’s micro-economies—fishing, beadwork, mining—are lifelines that deserve global attention. Through my motorcycle adventures, I’m committed to amplifying their voices and supporting sustainable initiatives. By sharing their stories, I hope to inspire solutions that uplift these communities and preserve their rich heritage.

Imagine if the world embraced the artistry of their beadwork, the ingenuity of their fishing techniques, or the potential of their gold mines. Together, we can ensure that Turkana’s story is celebrated globally.

Little-Known Facts About Turkana

  • Cradle of Mankind: Turkana is home to the Turkana Boy, a nearly complete Homo Erectus skeleton.
  • Lake Turkana: The world’s largest permanent desert lake, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Namortung’a: These ancient stone pillars are Turkana’s version of Stonehenge, their purpose still debated by historians.
  • Herbal Knowledge: The Turkana have an extensive understanding of local herbs, using them for food, medicine, and rituals.

Why I Ride

Every kilometre I cover is a step closer to uncovering and sharing stories that matter. Turkana left an indelible mark on my heart, and through my rides, I hope to leave a legacy of empowerment and connection. My motorcycle is more than just a means of travel; it’s a bridge between worlds, carrying stories of hope and resilience from the heart of Turkana to the rest of the world.

 

Riding through Machakos

From Anti-Gravity Hills to Historic Castles: The Motorcycle Adventure to Machakos County

Machakos County, with its captivating mix of natural wonders and historical landmarks, offers a journey into Kenya’s cultural and colonial past. My recent motorcycle adventure on my trusty Kawasaki KLR 650 took me to this region, where every mile was filled with discovery and stories waiting to be told.

Kya Mwilu: The Enigmatic Anti-Gravity Hill

The adventure began at Kya Mwilu, a site famous for its mysterious anti-gravity phenomenon. Here, vehicles appear to roll uphill on what seems like a downward slope. Intrigued, I tested it myself, letting my motorcycle idle. To my amazement, it began rolling backward—uphill. This optical illusion, created by the unique lay of the land, left me in awe and eager for the adventures ahead.

Through Tala and Kisyukioni

From Kya Mwilu, I rode through Tala and Kisyukioni, enjoying the smooth roads and scenic landscapes dotted with acacia trees. Life in these small towns buzzed with warmth, as locals waved and called out in greetings. The vibrant culture and serenity of these stops were the calm before the thrill of an off-road ride to a historic landmark: the Macmillan Castle.

Macmillan Castle: A Portal to Kenya’s Colonial Past

My next destination was the Macmillan Castle, nestled in a place called Muka Mukuu. The name, which translates to “first wife” in Kikamba, evokes a sense of tradition and significance. This imposing structure was built in the early 1900s by Sir William Northrup McMillan, an adventurer and colonial settler of American descent. Standing at the castle’s entrance, I was struck by its grandeur and sense of foreboding. Built with thick stone walls, the castle once served multiple roles: a hunting lodge, a social hub for McMillan’s extravagant parties, and later, during World Wars I and II, a military hospital and a prison. Exploring the castle, I descended into the underground chambers, where the notorious prisoners’ bunkers lay. The air was cool and damp, and the narrow passages evoked an eerie sense of the suffering endured by those held there. Walking through these spaces, I could almost hear the whispers of history. The castle is surrounded by vast land that was once home to sisal farms, worked by laborers, including Tom Mboya’s parents, Leonardus Ndiege and Marcella Onyango. These farms were part of McMillan’s expansive 19,000-acre Juja estate. Tom Mboya, a towering figure in Kenya’s fight for independence, was born on this land—a connection that ties Kenya’s colonial history to its fight for freedom.

The Journey to the Waterway

After immersing myself in the castle’s history, I embarked on an off-road route toward a waterway crossing that would lead me to Thika. Upon arrival, I was greeted by makeshift rafts that seemed like they could sink at any moment. Yet, they were the lifeline for ferrying people, livestock, and even motorcycles across the water. The spectacle began as a team of more than ten men worked together to load my heavy Kawasaki KLR 650 onto one of the rafts. The raft wobbled under the weight, and I was asked to board the same vessel. Out of concern for overloading, I declined and opted for a separate raft, nervously watching as my bike floated across the water ahead of me.

Unloading the Beast

Reaching the other side was only half the battle. The process of unloading the bike was an uphill task—literally. The men coordinated with incredible strength and precision, lifting the KLR 650 off the raft and onto solid ground. Their teamwork and resilience were inspiring to watch, and I couldn’t help but marvel at their determination.

Reflections on the Ride

This journey through Machakos County was more than just a motorcycle adventure; it was a deep dive into Kenya’s history, culture, and the indomitable spirit of its people. From the mysterious Kya Mwilu to the storied walls of Macmillan Castle in Muka Mukuu, and the communal effort at the waterway crossing, every moment was filled with wonder and connection. For motorcycle enthusiasts and adventurers looking to explore Kenya’s hidden gems, I offer guided tours to these extraordinary destinations. Together, we’ll uncover stories of resilience, history, and landscapes that leave a lasting impression. Let’s make every ride an unforgettable story—where history meets adventure, and every destination has a tale to tell.