Turkana County is where the sun seems to meld with the horizon, painting the earth in shades of gold and ochre. This was not going to be no ordinary adventure. Over 30 days, I embarked on a ride through one of Kenya’s most remote yet culturally rich regions, weaving through its tough terrain, meeting extraordinary people, and uncovering stories as ancient as the land itself.
The journey began in Nairobi and took me through Kitale, West Pokot, Kainuk, Kalemworok, Kakong’, and Lokichar, before finally arriving in Lodwar, the gateway to Turkana. From there, every stop unraveled a new layer of Turkana’s vibrant culture and breathtaking landscapes.
Discovering Turkana’s Hidden Gems
Each day was a lesson in resilience and wonder. I spent nights in Lodwar and Kanamkemer, immersed in the local way of life. My travels took me to places that felt like stepping into history books:
- Namortung’a: Ancient stone pillars shrouded in mystery, believed to serve as celestial markers for early civilizations.
- Kalokol: A bustling fishing hub on the shores of Lake Turkana.
- The Wadach Pyramids: Natural rock formations that inspire awe and curiosity.
- Lobolo and Eliye Springs: Oasis-like retreats where palm trees sway against the desert’s stark backdrop.
- Kang’atotha: A village that introduced me to Turkana’s intricate beadwork.
- Central Island: An active volcanic island in Lake Turkana, home to three crater lakes, each teeming with unique ecosystems.
- Lake Turkana Gulf: A shimmering expanse of water that sustains life and livelihoods.
- Fishermen Villages: From Lotisan to Lochilet and Wadite to Lokwar-angipirie, each village revealed the daily struggles and triumphs of the fisherfolk who call Lake Turkana home.
- ICT Hub at Loropio: A surprising beacon of technological innovation in this remote region.
- Kataboi, Nariokotome, and Lowareng’ak: Villages that offered glimpses into Turkana’s communal resilience.
- The Kenyan Canyon at Mlango: A dramatic natural formation that left me awestruck.
- Lokitaung’ and Mlima Tatu: Landmarks that challenged my endurance and rewarded me with spectacular views.
- The Gold Mines at Nadapal: Known locally as “Gold,” where miners dream of striking fortune.
- Kakuma Refugee Camp: A testament to human resilience, where cultures from across Africa converge.
Cultural Immersion: Food, Jewelry, and Traditions
Turkana’s culture is a tapestry of traditions passed down through generations. I was fortunate to experience their unique way of life, starting with their cuisine.
Nang’aria, a porridge-like dish, was a staple on my journey. It is served in a traditional wooden dish called Atubua, adding a ceremonial touch to every meal. I also tried Epong’, donkey meat revered as medicinal, earning it the nickname Epong’ e Dawa (donkey meat is medicine). Another highlight was Topetokon, a type of meat prepared with an array of herbs that Turkana communities have relied on for generations. Their knowledge of local herbs is vast, with many used for food, medicine, and even rituals.
I wore Ngakoromwa, the intricate beadwork that Turkana women adorn. Each piece is more than just jewelry; it’s a story. The red beads symbolize bravery and strength, blue represents water, green stands for fertility, and yellow and white signify blessings and purity. Wearing their jewelry felt like carrying their history with me.
Overcoming the Terrain
The Turkana landscape is as unforgiving as it is mesmerizing. I battled endless stretches of open roads, scorching heat, and rugged paths that tested my limits. Yet, every challenge brought rewards: breathtaking sunsets over Lake Turkana, the thrill of navigating the Kenyan Canyon, and the serenity of Eliye Springs. Despite the lack of showers on some days and the overwhelming heat, the beauty and resilience of the land kept me going.
Empowering Turkana’s Communities
This journey wasn’t just about exploring; it was about connecting. Turkana’s micro-economies—fishing, beadwork, mining—are lifelines that deserve global attention. Through my motorcycle adventures, I’m committed to amplifying their voices and supporting sustainable initiatives. By sharing their stories, I hope to inspire solutions that uplift these communities and preserve their rich heritage.
Imagine if the world embraced the artistry of their beadwork, the ingenuity of their fishing techniques, or the potential of their gold mines. Together, we can ensure that Turkana’s story is celebrated globally.
Little-Known Facts About Turkana
- Cradle of Mankind: Turkana is home to the Turkana Boy, a nearly complete Homo Erectus skeleton.
- Lake Turkana: The world’s largest permanent desert lake, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Namortung’a: These ancient stone pillars are Turkana’s version of Stonehenge, their purpose still debated by historians.
- Herbal Knowledge: The Turkana have an extensive understanding of local herbs, using them for food, medicine, and rituals.
Why I Ride
Every kilometre I cover is a step closer to uncovering and sharing stories that matter. Turkana left an indelible mark on my heart, and through my rides, I hope to leave a legacy of empowerment and connection. My motorcycle is more than just a means of travel; it’s a bridge between worlds, carrying stories of hope and resilience from the heart of Turkana to the rest of the world.